Flagship for local wine
In a remote area of Paphos one family is creating seven wines to be proud of
THE SETTING at Kilinia village is beautiful; an unpopulated countryside area of the Paphos region. As with most villages in Paphos, Kilinia boasts a fine old history with vines having been planted several decades back. This is the village of the Shoufas family and the setting of the Shoufas Regional Winery. The winery is a thirty minute drive from Paphos and is surrounded by vineyards, at an altitude of 1,100m. The climate is very good for wines - cool and with reasonable easterly exposure to the sun, something the Shoufas family realised 50 years age when they set out to make wine. The descendants continue this heritage today and the Shoufas cava boasts five labels of ordinary wine and two wines which are the flagships of the winery.
The winery has now almost completed its extension works and is equipped with modern equipment for winemaking. It opens its doors to visitors on almost a daily basis. The area is suitable for the indigenous grape varieties, thus the white grape variety used is Xinisteri for a crispy dry with strong fruit aromas of citrus and banana, and, for a fruitier wine the medium dry. The red grape varieties are a blend of both indigenous and imported grape varieties. The smooth Shoufas red is made from selected grapes of Mataro, Mavro, Maratheftiko and Alicante grapes. The same grapes are used for its medium dry red with much fruitier character for wine drinkers who like to taste a tinge of sugar in their wine glasses. The aromatic rosé is made by red grape varieties, mainly by the Mavro grape. Generally Shoufas wines tend to have a smooth texture when you taste, something that is attributed to the skill of the winemaker.
Their pride though is the red wine Maratheftiko and the classic Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Maratheftiko or Bambakada is a local variety of superior quality found among Mavro stocks in many vineyards. The wine from this grape is usually concentrated, the tannin, fragrance, colour and structure are extremely close to those of a Cabernet Sauvignon. What is problematic with this variety in Cyprus - there are about only 50 hectares compared to 9,500 of Mavro - is that it faces a serious viticultural problem, for it has a propensity to severe loss, resulting in thinly clustered grape bunches. The reason for this is Maratheftiko is one of the very few varieties in the world which are non-hermaphroditic. Its buds are physiologically female and consequently is has to be planted in mixed vineyards to ensure pollination. Despite this difficulty, it is the only indigenous red quality grape variety. I believe that Cyprus winemakers should invest more on this grape, which is stifled by dozens of imported red grape varieties that have flooded the island. As for Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot the first is a variety that is now widely available on the island and very few wineries have abstained from attempting to produce wine from it. Merlot is a newcomer on the island and personally I still have my doubts whether it will adapt to Cyprus soil and climate.
Wines if the week
2003 Shoufas Maratheftico, Kilinia Village, Paphos Region, Alcohol Volume 12.5%
This is an interesting wine, with a velvet ruby red colour and a complex nose. Fresh, this 100% Maratheftiko is swathed in aromas of herbs, cassis, plums and cherries. On the palate this medium to full-bodied wine is succulent yet restrained; black cherry and blackcurrant fruit coupled with soft tannins and a rather balanced acidity. Age potential of four more years, served at 18ºC this wine suits more Cabernet Sauvignon food char-grilled red meat especially lamb or rabbit stifado.
2003 Shoufas Cabernet Sauvignon & Merlot, Kilinia Village, Paphos Region, Alcohol Volume 12.5%
The classic blend, and if I am not mistaken, the only one in Cyprus, since Merlot vineyards are new in Cyprus, about five years old. Deep, inky red colour, this is a structural Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) and Merlot (40%) with a spicy aromatic nose of black fruit mainly cassis and cherries with a overlay of oak. Excellent layering of the fruit flavours on the palate, pulled together with rounded tannins and into a pleasant finish. The wine will reach its peak in a couple of years. At 18ºC, this Shoufas blend will suit roast beef (try it rare), been stews, grilled food especially lamb.
l For more information on Shoufas wines, call 26 722144 or 99 435436