A holiday companion
New guide to Cyprus wine is ideal for those without much knowledge of the area
Stop Whining and Start Wining - this is the new wine drinkers’ guide to Cypriot wine that has hit the book shelves recently. The author, Stanna Wieclawska, is a Cyprus based freelance journalist and writer.
Some of us have a rather, ambivalent attitude to guide books in general. Sometimes we may want to depart from the beaten track, leap off into the unknown and discover the delights and idiosyncrasies of the countryside for ourselves, finding that warm, friendly family tavern without the help of a Michelin guide. There are two separate strands impulsing this romantic idea. Naturally, what you have discovered for yourself unaided will be that much more satisfying. And what has yet to be unearthed by the world at large will be more innocent and more valuable.
On the other hand, as a seasoned traveler round the vineyards and sights of Europe, many’s the time I have been deeply grateful for informed advice. As a result, I am sure I’ve eaten better and not missed anything that was really vaut le voyage. Romantic Person may be snooty about guidebooks; Rational Person appreciates the advice they give.
Wine books are somewhat different from the usual guidebooks. The vast majority are written for the consumer at home and it is only incidentally that they have their uses abroad. Nevertheless, if you are holidaying in a part of the world where vines are grown, it seems sensible to take a wine book with you.
My three criteria for wine books to take with you on holiday are: portable, informed and up-to-date. This brings me to Stanna’s wine book. It is portable, thus covering the first criterion. Stanna mentions in the book that she is not a wine expert, nor has any professional expertise on the subject and the wines mentioned in the book are a reflection of her palate. This is fine, as long readers keep that in mind. The book is written in simple language, all the ‘academic references’ are easily understood. She writes as a wine drinker who enjoys good wine and believes that in Cyprus you can find good wine. The motive for making the book is just that; to guide the consumer through the basics of appreciating good wine and then discover in a separate chapter her own favourite list.
The first chapters explain to readers how wine is made, and how to understand and appreciate the plethora of aromas and describing the palate. On page 16 there is a feature on ‘The Wine Wheel’ a fascinating tool which aids in identifying and describing aromas. There is a chapter devoted to drinking less and better, the healthy aspects, and about eight pages on the history of winemaking in Cyprus. The bones of the book are portrayed in the Back to Basics chapter, where readers can find answers to many questions about wine. For example there is a section on tannin, the reds, the whites and the ros?s. Another subject is shopping, storing wine, tips on storing after opening, serving, decanting and glasses to use. The ‘tips’ move on to dealing with corked wine, selecting wine, ordering in a restaurant, of course tasting and finally pricing. Following that there is a brief description of the indigenous and imported grape varieties and finally the A-Z list of Stanna’s personal favourites titled ‘The Good, The Bad and The Ugly’ along with a chapter dedicated to matching wine with food.
This is a rather more gentle publication, less didactic and easier-to-read guide. For those who have little knowledge about the wines of the region this book is ideal, yet not recommended – as Stanna admits – for the real wine expert, but really useful for the tourists. Although the glossary is superb, maps of the vineyards and wineries would have been useful.

l Stop Whining & Start Wining – A wine Drinkers Guide to Cypriot Wine is published by Sand Publishing and is available in all good bookstores priced £5.95. This is good value.

Wines of the week

These are two wines not featured in Stanna’s book, simply because they were only made available earlier this year, after the book was completed. Both are the new creations of SODAP’s regional winery located at Polemi.

2004 Kamanterena, Xinisteri, SODAP, Stroumbi regional winery, Paphos region, Alcohol Volume 12.5%
This is probably one of the best Xinisteris, with a yellowish greenish tint colour. On the nose we discover floral aromas, white flowers particularly, green apple and generally green and white tropical fruit rising from the warm nose. The palate is medium body with good fruit and zesty acidity. This wine has a fresh lingering finish. Served at 9?C, enjoy this wine with seafood, green salads, cooked vegetables, tomato-based sauces, pastas and fish with light white sauces.

2004 Kamanterena, Carignan Noir – Cabernet Sauvignon – Opthalmo - Grenache, SODAP Stroumbi regional winery, Paphos region, Alcohol Volume 12.5%
An interesting blend, purple red in colour, healthy red fruit on the nose, plums, cherry and cassis, with rich freshness of crisp pepper and spices. Medium to full bodied, the tannins are developed to offset the hugely robust berry fruit. The texture is good and it has a good chewy finish. Still a bit young, it can age for four more years, you may serve this wine at 16?C with most Italian ‘fast food’ like pizza, Bolognese etc., pan-fried pork fillet, charcuterie and medium cheese.