Three wineries and a lunch

You can’t pack much more into a day trip than that. And the views are stunning too

This month’s wine and church trip takes us to not one, but three quality wineries so make sure you have a designated non-drinking driver as plenty of sampling has to be endured before lunch. The beauty of this trip is you can either go and come on the same route or go one way and return another.

So, for those who wish the former: take the road to Polis from Paphos, driving very carefully as this highway is notorious for motorists intent upon testing out their firm belief in immortality. After about 20 minutes, on the outskirts of Stroumbi, take the right turn opposite the petrol station, you are now en route to Polemi.

Keep on driving through this rather sleepy village and, after about ten minutes, you will round a steep corner, on the left there is a sign post to Fyti village (sometimes the sign has been taken down, but its clear to see the road on the left meandering up the steep hillside). Don’t take the turn, just make a note of it – this is where lunch is to be had on the return journey.

Onwards and upwards. Staying on the same road, it will take you higher and higher to a lush landscape dominated by soaring hills blanketed with a mass of sweet smelling pines.
At the outskirts of Panayia, on the right sits the local winery Vouni Panayia, famous for its delicious low alcoholic dry/medium white Alina, the rich, full-bodied Plakota, light, fruity Pampella rose wine, an excellent ‘oaky’ Kannavera partnered with a deep red warm Maratheftico. There’s a large tasting area on the ground floor, go in the side door by the car park - here you will be welcomed by friendly staff who actively encourage you to join in a hearty sipping session.

Panayia is the birthplace of the late Archbishop and President Makarios; here he is honoured by two small museums and an enormous statue in the main square. The cultural centre is a touch on the feeble side when it comes to displaying personal artefacts, with only a pair of his slippers and his cousin’s alarm clock to grab one’s imagination and sense of history.

Drive through the village for another 2km and on the right you will see the Monastery of Chrysorrogiatissa standing at a shady bend in the road. The church inside the very pretty cloistered courtyard is well worth a visit as it contains some quite magnificent Venetian chandeliers. But more importantly it houses the miraculous icon of the Virgin.

The hermit Ignatius retrieved this glowing image of the holy Mother and was told by God to build a church on this spot. This icon became the patroness of criminals, who prayed to avoid arrest. Dating from 1770, with repairs after a catastrophic fire in 1967, one of the loveliest pieces of original craftsmanship is the exquisite carved and painted wood panel ‘Yinaikonitis’ in the rear of the knave. Right opposite the church is a small gift shop dominated by wine for sale, these include some excellent vintages for its here Monte Royia wines are produced.

The abbot, aptly named Dionysius, is a man devoted not only to God but also to icon restoration and, of course, the growing of fine vines. There’s no sampling facilities available even though the Abbot was the first man to bring the chardonnay grape to Cyprus for cultivation.

Staying on the same road, make your way to Statos Ayios Fotios. Just before you reach the village, on the right, is the Kolios winery. The wine produced here has become very popular with expats and you can sample the very acceptable and reasonably-priced medium and dry white Persefoni, Cornetto (a light rose), a singular Shiraz, an oak barrel matured Cabernet Sauvignon and a fine, limited-edition Shiraz along with their rather good daily sipping wine Ayios Fotios.

There is a large testing room, which offers remarkable panoramic views from 3,000 feet above sea level. Lunches can also be served but only if you give at least a day’s notice and there is a group of at least six people. You can then eat, drink, and be merry for £11 per head safe in the knowledge that the free wine that accompanies lunch will never run out.

For those who want to return home at this point, carry on through Ayios Fotios for a straight run down in the direction of the sea to come out at the main highway turn just before Paphos airport.

If you are in for the long haul, return back down the road, turn off to Fyti and enter the main square, where there are two tavernas to choose from, both of which are very good. The Fyti tavern is closest to the church and was the original schoolhouse. We ate at the Pine Tree on the opposite side of the square, and thoroughly enjoyed, for £6 per head, a typical, home-cooked meal with a plethora of delicious dishes (the beef stew with onions flavoured with cloves was voted a warming winner on what was a very cold day in January). We were impressed that the local Plakota wine came with only a modest mark up at £4 a bottle. A jolly lunch eaten under the many colourful hanging woven works, all made on the premises and for sale. If doing this trip in the spring there is a lovely museum a few minutes walk away dedicated to weaving, where a lady from the village can be seen busily clacking away at her loom.

As you drive back with the comforting sound of wine bottles gently clinking in the boot, congratulate yourselves on having been lucky enough, in one day, to experience local culture, art, history, God’s architecture, nature, feasting and of course the delicious juice of many grapes.

Vouni Panayia Winery
Tel: 26 722770, Fax: 26 722879
Kolios Winery
Tel: 26 724090, Fax: 26 724070
Pine Tree Taverna
Tel: 26 732342